Up the Coppename...for 8 hours!

Zipping along on the 8 hour...yep 8 hours, ride.

Often times long travel involves several modes of transport; the noted planes, trains and automobiles. But today it was the bus and boat. Out to the bus with the gear---wow, are we really taking all that? This must be some boat, I thought. We loaded boxes and bags, camp stoves and propane tanks, 7 people and some bags of lunch. And off we went. Through the busy streets and out to the country on a 3 hour ride to Boskamp (boss-camp) on a bus that, while well suited when new, seemed a little tired. A little bouncy, dirty and well used. Most of the city appeared the same way. After many years of civil war in the 80’s and a government that is dysfunctional in many ways, the city seemed weary. The traffic—very lively. They drive on the wrong side here, according to me and also drive where they like, beeping at anything that suits; “Horning along”, our guide told us.

Arriving at the dock—pulling right up to the end, by the way, we loaded the boat. The boat is a long single piece of Greenhart that has been dug out to form the bottom. The bow end has been bent up like a tongue. The sides are formed by large pieces of local cedar and benches make up seats. Oh yea, the boat is 45’ long and powered by an 80 horsepower engine. The boatman, Bigga and his mate—who rides the bow to watch for rocks—spun us around and had us under way at a very nice pace. As we made our way deeper into the jungle the river became more like a river and less like an inlet. When we left it was really wide—1 mile, and very muddy, but as we traveled, it became very clear that we were headed to a place that for most of us was only an image from the Discovery Channel. The trees became taller and the river narrower with rocks scattered about. Bigga was an ace. He needled that boat through the river and around the rocks like a seasoned naval captain.

The jungle, is not like to woods you might visit in my area of the US (NE). It appeared like a blanket of green, everything just growing all over everything. Trees of all shapes and sizes, vines, flowers and some things I not sure how to explain. And it was tall. More like a river through a canyon. The trees and flora forming very high walls. The ride was a great 8 hours with a stop at Witagron—a small village (one hut & a truck parking space). A few jumps off the bridge by some of the crew to cool off and underway again. We stopped, you see, to take the canopy off the boat so Bigga could see the rocks/route better. Zipping along, the clouds became our friend by covering the Sun for a while. And then the rain came. Imagine the worst down burst you’ve seen, now double it, drive along in a boat at 15 mph and feel the tempeture drop 10 degrees. It was just that good!!!! That exhilarating! There are a few times in your life when you feel alive…this was one. Cruising along in a dugout canoe, 50+ miles from ANYTHING and if that boat breaks…your swimming to a rock and waiting a day for the next one (no boats at night). But, Bigga, he has no worries. This is his world and you are with him. You are ALIVE!